Is the "worm" problem solvable?
I have already told on the pages of the magazine about the moles, about how the gardeners in our village managed to expel them from the site, flooding the underground passages with water.
But the neighbors, admittedly, were fabulously lucky. Apparently, the whole point was that the moles had just started to penetrate there and occupied only a small corner on the site. And so they managed to "smoke" with water.
For me, however, like other summer residents who tried this technique, nothing worked. Moles made their way to our site from a meadow. But this did not help: the moles made a move under the bathhouse and, thus rounding the ditch, ended up on the site.
In the first summer, these natural mole rats, apparently, were assimilated, because there were no more than a dozen molehills. However, then the moles bred successfully, and with each summer cottage the number of molehills doubled, or even tripled. Moreover, the "occupation" of the site took place in all directions. And in the fourth year, almost the entire land was "decorated" with numerous molehills. Looking mournfully at the disfigured vegetable garden (especially the two undermined and therefore dried up precious junipers for me), not to mention the ruined strawberry bushes, I involuntarily asked myself the question: is the mole friend or foe?
Because in some publications, for example, in the magazine "My Beautiful Garden" it is stated that the mole: “… It brings more benefits than harm: by laying tunnels, it loosens the soil, contributing to its aeration. In addition, due to its gluttony, the mole destroys many pests "... True, the publication was unsigned. Apparently, the author himself did not believe in what he wrote. Indeed, this animal destroys wireworms, bears, larvae of the May beetle (beetle), snails, wood lice.
In support of these statements, the author announced that he almost protects these very moles: they say, they destroy the harmful beetles. But this is a pure delusion ... I collaborate with the magazine "Young Naturalist", and the scientific consultant of the magazine explained that, indeed, in the Black Earth Zone and further south, the mole is beneficial, destroying numerous beetles. However, in the climatic conditions of the North-West, there are few beetles, and therefore they do not cause significant harm to plantings.
In addition, it should be remembered that the main food of moles is the unsurpassed helpers of farmers - earthworms. And since moles do not hibernate, they harvest this food for future use. And one more thing: although the animals do not feed on berries and root crops, while making moves, they damage plants, thereby slowing down their development, or even leading to death.
Therefore, looking again at the site (we have 15.5 hundred square meters), thoroughly "cultivated" by moles, I made an unambiguous conclusion: we must fight them, they must be expelled! But how? My attempts to flood their passages with water, I repeat, failed. What to do next?
Once, passing through the village, I saw several weathercocks with propellers in one of the gardens. They interested me. I talked with the owners of the site. It turned out that in this way they fight moles.
It would seem that this is a simple and reliable way to get rid of moles! All that remains is to act. But there was something that confused me a lot about this design ...
Firstly, the sound from the propeller is transmitted first to the horizontal wooden crossbar (body), on which it is fixed, and through it to the vertical stick. That is, a double sound transmission is obtained.In other words, double loss of sound.
Secondly, wood is a poor sound conductor.
These two conclusions inevitably led to the idea that the vibration from such a device would be weak. When I asked the owners of the site about the effectiveness of weather vane, they looked at each other and somehow hesitated. And after a pause, not very confidently explained that the result will not be immediately, they say, we have to wait. I was not convinced by their arguments, and I decided to refuse weathercocks.
I began to look for other ways to get rid of moles. I dismissed the usual mechanical mole traps right away, since everyone who used them unanimously declared their complete uselessness.
Some gardeners suggested using electronic mole repellents: they say, these are the modern most effective devices. True, for some reason, it was mainly those who had not yet fought with moles themselves. But closer acquaintance with such scarers made me disheartened.
These electronic scarers operate on two types of batteries: solar-charged and mains-powered. The cheapest of them, as stated in many advertisements, from three hundred rubles. Moreover, you have to look for them! The radius of action is no more than a meter.
Now imagine how many of these scarers will be needed, for example, on my 15.5 ares plot? You can, of course, rearrange them: the mole left this place, move the repeller to another place. And if the animal returns to its original place, what then? So are we going to move them back and forth?
In addition, such manipulations will cost a pretty penny! Not only does each repeller cost a lot of money, but also charging with electricity. And one more trouble: according to the instruction manual, it is sometimes necessary to remove static voltage on electric scarers. But how to do it is not described.
Moreover, in one of the instructions it is recommended to install the device specifically at a depth of 38.5 centimeters. What happens if you set, say, to a depth of 36 or 40 centimeters, then the efficiency of the device will decrease or will it stop working altogether? Another option: I will install this Chinese repeller at the recommended depth, and the ground will suddenly settle. What then? Nobody could really explain anything.
Having estimated all the pros and cons, I came to the unhappy conclusion that all these ingenious electronic things are unlikely to help me get rid of moles. You should look for simple, "folk" ways to deal with these annoying animals.
In magazines, I found recommendations to scare off moles with the pungent smells of birch tar, spreading chips smeared with it all over the site, or the smell of kerosene. They also advised planting vegetable beans, which, they say, tolerate moles. They will immediately leave the site.
Another bullshit. And here's why ... On our site every year, three rather large beds are occupied with potatoes. We sow beans in each row between the bushes. Sometimes we put several beans in the hole at once. Alas, the beans - both white and black - do not affect the behavior of moles in any way. These animals ignore them.
Despite the objections of the household, I decided to try the option with kerosene. The author of the article advised to take a rag, soak it in kerosene and place it in a wormhole. Then fill up the course so that the smell does not evaporate. He made sure that all the moles were gone.
Soaking the rags, I was so saturated with the smell of kerosene that those around me frowned as they approached me. However, I still received a convincing result of the kerosene manipulations: the moles were safely making passages, bypassing my kerosene barriers.
It turned out that there was no escape from these animals. But…
Riding a bicycle through the gardening located not far from our village, I saw an interesting structure in a well-groomed area. More precisely, I first heard and then saw. Beer cans dangled from ordinary (inch) water pipes. There were five of them. They were located on molehills around the greenhouse, not far from the road.
I got off my bike and began to look ... The pipes with the cans rose 1-1.5 meters above the ground. From gusts of wind, the bottom of the cans hit the base pipes, creating a rather loud sound cacophony. It turned out because, firstly, the banks began to sound (strum) at different times, and secondly, they sounded differently. It was quite obvious that all this "mechanics" is directed against moles.
Since there were locks on the gate and on the door of the house (and the neighbors too), I was not able to talk to anyone. But I got a good look through the fence. Since the moles around these jingles were clearly stale, one could at least assume that the moles had left these places.
After a while, I came to this site again. Alas, I did not find anyone again. However, there were no molehills or jingles anymore. He left a note asking to call, but no one responded. But since I saw an anti-mole construction device, I decided to try to make such strummers.
I did not have suitable tubes, so I cut rods 1.5 meters long with a metal hacksaw from a wire with a diameter of six millimeters. Then I cut out the top lid of half-liter beer cans (which I saw on the gardening site) with scissors so that only the rim remained. He bent the sharp edges with pliers.
Since all beer cans have a concave bottom, it had to be made convex so that the can would not get stuck on the bar. To do this, I took a smooth stick, fixed it in a vise and, putting a jar on it, began to bend the bottom. Although you could just put the stick on a solid base and bend it with the same success. After this operation, the jar looked like in the picture. All that remained was to stick the bar into the ground and put the jar on it.
Experimentally established: strumming can be significantly enhanced if you use liter beer cans. True, you have to spend more effort bending the bottom. Only I advise you not to get carried away with the number of cans - have mercy on your neighbors. After all, you can achieve not only a loud strumming, but also a real rumble. For example, when I put on liter cans on fifteen rods, their strumming was clearly audible from a hundred meters away.
So I began to fight the impostors for my own plot. Moreover, he put sound scarers not anywhere, but in accordance with the actions of moles ... As soon as in the morning (most often) or in the afternoon he found fresh molehills, he immediately put strummers in those places. After all, molehills arise on the passages along which animals move.
And although the animals stubbornly continued to make moves, diligently avoiding the strummers, I put new cans on the moves with the same persistence. When, after two or three molehills, the further direction of the moves was found out, he immediately put jingles in this direction, thereby preventing the movement of the moles. And when they changed the direction of the passages, I immediately blocked it.
Finally, when I blocked each of the three directions of movement of the animals with a barrier of four cans located in a semicircle a meter apart, and the total number of cans reached nineteen, the moles still left. Such a conclusion could be drawn from the absence of new molehills. Thus, only two months after installing the strummers from the beer cans, I (hopefully) managed to drive the animals out.
And only after that, yielding to the insistent requests of the household, he took off the seven cans closest to the house. They are very tired of this endless annoying strumming. However, he left the base rods. Just in case: you never know what. What if the moles come back.
Some conclusions can be drawn from my anti-mole experience:
1. The "work" of cans must be constantly monitored. This is due to the fact that sometimes the can “sits” poorly on the base (pin, pipe, fittings, metal bar). It can fall to one side. In this position, the bank will "work" (strum) only in a certain direction of the wind. The worst case scenario is when it gets stuck in some part of the base.In this case, the bank will only shake slightly, emitting a faint sound, and most often it will be silent.
It is clear that the work of the can depends entirely on how curved its bottom is, that is, how it is located on the base. An insufficiently or poorly functioning can must be replaced or it is better to try to bend the bottom. Sometimes it helps to rearrange a similar jar on a different base.
Ideal when the curved center of the can is exactly on the base. It is clear that it is not always possible to achieve such a situation (although it is necessary to strive for this!). But such a bank will work (strum) at the slightest breeze and in any direction of the wind.
2. Again, empirically (by the appearance of new molehills near the strummers), I found that rattling is felt by animals at a distance of no more than a meter in a circle. Based on the area of the site, you can roughly determine how many cans are required. I hope it is now clear that the case with a weather vane or a single Chinese electronic repeller is sheer nonsense.
3. The base on which the bank is put on must be metal. It can be made up of several parts, for example, by inserting a metal rod into the pipe, but with an indispensable condition: the part that will be in the ground should be as massive as possible. It is necessary to dig it into the ground as deep as possible. After all, it is from her that the sound spreads, unpleasant for moles.
But back to the moles in my area. It would seem that this is a victory! Live and rejoice from the heart! You can rejoice, but only partially. And here's why ... Let's say I got rid of these harmful diggers, but the question is: for how long? I drove them away, but where should they go? Of course, only move to neighboring areas. But, suppose, and from there they will be expelled. They will move on and after a while they may well be on my site again. In a word, it turns out to be a kind of whirlwind.
And so it happened ... Twenty days after a complete lull, three molehills appeared on the onion garden. And soon two more on the potato bed (by the way, where the beans also grew). I do not know how the moles were oriented, but they obviously made their way exactly to the place where the strummers were not heard. Of course, I immediately put them on these new molehills. And for three months now there are no moles.
To avoid another invasion of moles, I intend to play it safe and build a circular "defense". To do this, I am going to put scarers from beer cans every 1.5-2 meters around the entire perimeter of the site (35x40 meters). True, the constant strumming is very depressing, especially for the one who works in the garden. But what to do: there is no choice - either moles and a warped vegetable garden, or a sound cacophony, but without annoying diggers.
Do I need to fight moles and are there benefits from them?
In response to inquiries about the habits of a mole, the Internet immediately gives out a bunch of sites with proposals to destroy it. Some clever traps, scarers of all kinds of designs, all sorts of poison ... People, come to your senses! It's the XXI century, it's time to change your attitude towards wildlife. It was in pre-revolutionary Russia that there was a monstrous craft for catching moles, from whose skins cheap (unstable fur) short fur coats for governesses and maids were sewn. Now he is in the past, but the gardener at the sight of molehills - heaps of earth that the mole pushes out - comes into primal horror and begins an uncompromising struggle. Some kind of madness! You involuntarily remember Bulgakov's Sharikov with his "yesterday the cats were strangled, strangled" ...
The only person who has comprehended the charm of a cute and harmless underground animal is the Czech animator Zdenek Miler, who has created wonderful children's films about Krotik. (By the way, they are also relevant for adults.)
I would like to take this opportunity to raise my voice in defense of moles.Why is it that clumsy, velvet-skinned creatures pose a threat to your garden? Having read in childhood Andersen's "Thumbelina", where the mole was bred as an unsympathetic character, we, unfortunately, transferred our negative attitude towards this animal into adulthood. But there is much more benefit than harm from it!
To begin with, there is a firm conviction among the people: the mole, they say, undermines the roots of plants and feeds on root crops, encroaching on our lovingly grown vegetable garden. However, this is idle fiction. The mole is not a fool to make paths in the intricacies of roots. Its natural trace of habitat is meadow open spaces. He is far from being a vegetarian, he does not eat any carrots or other root vegetables. This insectivorous mammal, in addition to earthworms, is based on insects, including such a dangerous one as the bear, which breeds in huge numbers. He also eats slugs, wood lice, May beetle larvae, various caterpillars, destroying which the mole helps a person in his battle for the harvest.
Drains and loosens!
It has been proven that by its activity the mole helps to improve the structure of the soil, enriching it with humus.
In addition, the passages that he tirelessly digs are a kind of additional drainage system for your site. From such territories, melt water and heavy rainfall leave faster, the level of soil water goes down. So what harm does it do? Diseases, unlike rodents, does not spread. He lives underground, builds a system of his passages and snorkels, where he keeps stocks in a businesslike way and catches larvae ...
From time to time, the mole makes itself felt, throwing out of the tunnels volcanoes of excellent quality earth. What's so terrible about that? Even if, contrary to expectations, the mole wandered under your plantings, nothing terrible happened. Over time, in search of food, he will certainly move to another site, and nothing catastrophic will happen to your flower garden or garden.
This fairly harmless animal lives somewhere in a parallel world, revealing itself only in heaps of molehills, which arouse the indignation of gardeners. But the soil of these molehills, loose and fertile, can be used for sowing seedlings and planting pot crops. So, instead of getting angry, carefully collect this valuable soil in buckets and use it in your gardening practice.
The hard worker mole spends all day tinkering underground, trying to find food for himself. It turns out that if he does not eat for more than 12 hours, he will die of hunger. He is simply doomed to dig his own tunnels - he does not hibernate even in winter! The fur coat of a mole, because he works tirelessly, quickly wears off against the walls of the tunnels, so he sheds three times a year. In severe winters with little snow, when the ground freezes to a great depth, there is a massive death of moles.
Since the mole is extremely hardworking and in search of food is able to dig through considerable areas, gardeners suspect that there is a whole invasion of moles. However, this is another myth about moles, since in fact we are talking about the work of only one single mole. This animal cannot put up with fellows.
Each of them occupies a certain territory rivals are expelled. The mole is quarrelsome, attacks relatives who accidentally found themselves on its site and can even bite them in a fit of rage.
Do not believe those who claim that the mole is rapidly multiplying. During the year, he has offspring only once. And at the tender age of one and a half months, the little moles are already leaving their native nest, scattering around the neighborhood to occupy an empty area and start an independent life. As you can see, even at a very young age, the mole mercilessly drives out its own children from its territory to free bread.
Do not panic: the mole will not last long on your site.
A year or two - and he will leave to develop new areas. We have such a friend wandering back and forth, back and forth in the same place across the path.Our vain attempts to bring down the course, trampling it down every day, have led nowhere. With enviable persistence, the mole was restoring the passage. And then he quietly disappeared. Apparently, he moved to the neighbors. Therefore, be patient, you do not need to stick any rags (as is usually advised - moistened with kerosene) into your passages and sprinkle rat poison.
If the mole presence really affects non-moats, the most harmless measure against it is to put scarecrows. The simplest, such as a primitive chickenpox, can be easily made by yourself. On a pole stuck in the ground, nail a propeller or a child's spinner. Under the influence of even a light breeze, they will spin and transmit vibrations underground.
The poor blind mole has very well developed hearing. He, a gloomy neurasthenic who does not tolerate unnecessary noise (after all, it's good that Thumbelina ran away from him!), This is unlikely to please, and he will prefer to retire from your inhospitable area. Only is it necessary?
I call on my fellow gardeners, like-minded people, to change their attitude towards the poor mole, who is undergoing undeserved persecution. After all, our garden, in theory, should become a place where all inhabitants should live in harmony with each other. Do not try to dominate the garden: the garden lives by its own laws. And the main law here is that everyone does their job, and everyone should be welcome. After all, it is not they - the representatives of the wild fauna - the guests in our garden, but we are their guests and must behave accordingly! I urge you to stop persecuting all living things, because both ermines and squirrels perish from rat poison ... We must stop harassing moles and shrews by setting traps for them and heartlessly drowning them in a bucket. There is room for everyone in the garden.
And I strongly advise: review the cartoons about the mole.
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TIP: To ward off moles from the site, I dug in 2/3 along the beds, a meter apart, plastic and glass bottles with the neck up. The buzzing sound created by the wind, "lost" in the bottles, scares away not only moles, but also shrews.
My son and I have 5 acres of land each, but my son almost never comes to his plot. And on his site there was a whole farm of moles, enough for more than one fur coat. But for me the trouble is that these diggers have settled in a greenhouse and are eating the roots of tomatoes.
I figured out how to get rid of them. I disassembled the headboard of the iron bed and took 4 rods from it. I drove the rods into the corners of the greenhouse, sit down on a chair near the rod and knock on the rod with a small metal spatula. Yes, so loud that not only the moles do not like it, but also the neighbors. I knock at 11 am for 15-20 minutes and the same amount in the evening. From Monday to Friday, I don't bother anyone. And on weekends, no one digs holes and passages in my greenhouse.
summer residents constantly complain about moles, because the recently widespread "rattles" made of plastic bottles mounted on stakes do not help in all cases.
Why these devices do not work, I do not know, but this is a fact. But the methods of dealing with moles, which I tried at different times on my site, help one hundred percent. And this is also a fact. So:
Plant beans in your vegetable garden. They are generally of double use on the site: their roots and underground "rascals" scare away (I have never heard that moles were noticed in those gardens where this culture grows), and they themselves use these organic matter to improve the quality of the soil.
□ If you don’t want to mess with beans, plant an imperial hazel grouse at your dacha, and then no plant will definitely suffer from moles. The fact is that hazel grouse bulbs contain aromatic substances that moles cannot stand. Again, there is a double benefit from such a planting, because this culture is very decorative.By the way, if you put a hazel grouse on top of stored tulip bulbs, you can successfully protect your flower stocks from mice. Checked!
And moles do not like the smell of Tagetes very much. Moreover, the pungent smell of these flowers scares away many other pests of the garden.
Even newfangled ultrasonic repellents do not help in a protracted war with moles. But you should not give up. I would like to share with the readers a completely reliable way how to get rid of the uninvited "diggers" from the site, in which you don't even need to design anything.
First of all, you need to find an old, maybe even tattered felt boot. It is necessary to cut off pieces from it about 2 × 8 cm in size.They should be
moisten in kerosene, lightly set on fire, and after that - decompose into mole passages. This is not so difficult: there will be no more than 15 minks on a plot of 6 acres.
After that, there will be no more problems with moles!
Of course, we must fight with moles, but I want to use only humane methods.
I came to the conclusion that the sound of iron is heard deep underground, which is why the moles leave. I will tell you a simple way to make an iron "bogeyman": stick an iron rod (not aluminum) with the end bent by the letter "G" into the ground 20 cm. It should look like a poker. Empty beer cans should be put on this hook - for the “opener”. The can is light; when the wind blows, it beats against the rod and emits a sound that spreads in the depths. On the site, 5-6 such cans are enough to create complete discomfort for the moles.
And I also have a way to scare away mosquitoes, it helps in the open air when I want to sit in the summer. I take an empty tin can, put pine or spruce cones in it, sprinkle a few drops of tar on them and set them on fire. The smoke drives away all flying insects.
I read that beans planted around the perimeter of the garden help scare off moles. It's true? Will such a neighborhood interfere with other plants?
- Neighborhood with beans will not harm other crops, but I doubt that the former can scare off moles. In any case, I have not seen scientific confirmation of this theory, but the author of the question can conduct an experiment. Even if the pests do not bypass her site, the legume harvest will remain as a "consolation prize" for the hostess.
By the way, I also recommend to be careful with fashionable ultrasonic repellents. Summer residents say that there were cases when such devices led to the death of whole livestock of rabbits, including those of neighbors. Moreover, moles are almost not afraid of such devices, although there are opposite opinions.
If the experiment with beans does not bring the expected result, I recommend using proven mole traps and get a cat.
I read on the Internet that moles bypass the areas on which the imperial hazel grouse grows. They are also afraid of strong odors. You just need to put the "puff" directly into the wormhole. She planted a hazel grouse, and stuffed the passages with elderberry and tansy, and put rags soaked in kerosene in a couple of minks.
But, apparently, my "lodgers" have a "runny nose" - mounds continue to appear. Tell me, are there any other ways to drive the moles away?
- When I first encountered a mass invasion of moles, I placed metal rods at a distance of one and a half meters from each other, on which tin cans were loosely fixed. And the very next day ... I ran away from the dacha from the cacophony of metallic clangs. The moles did not dig new holes, but the price of such a victory was too high ...
A friend suggested that moles are afraid not only of noise, but also of vibration.
Weathervanes helped out. Next to the molehills, to a depth of 10-15 cm, I stuck in pieces of plastic pipes 1.5-1.7 m long. In the upper part, I fixed weathercocks, which, according to the principle of children's toys, were cut out of thin tin and assembled by a neighbor. In general, the designs are flimsy. But even they were enough to drive away most of the pests.
And next year a wild cat settled in the country.Over time, there were no moles or mice on the site, and I visit Murka and even feed him in winter. She turned out to be the most reliable protector of my harvest.
This year the moles have completely overcome. Ruined half of the flowers, you can't go in the garden, I am silent about the garden. My husband put mole traps (ordered on the Internet), on the advice of neighbors poured carbide into the passages and spilled abundantly with water - nothing works ... Tell me what to do?
Beans helped to cope with the moles. I split the whole garden into rectangular sectors 7 m long and 3-4 m wide. In the spring, I sowed beans along the perimeter of each sector - and, oddly enough, the method worked. For many years now, there has not been a single molehill in the garden. And dishes with beans have become familiar both on my table and in the diet of my favorite layers.
Since childhood, I remember how my parents constantly fought with moles: they thrust rotten fish deep into their holes. Sometimes red hot peppers were added to it. Didn't help ...
Now a neighbor is fighting with moles.
Either he inserts a hose with water turned on in the hole, then he puts carbide in all the passages - the mounds do not disappear anywhere ... The garlands of empty metal beer cans hung all over the site did not frighten the animals. But recently, a neighbor read an interesting piece of advice: with the growing moon, you need to remove all the mounds erected by the moles with your hands, leave the holes open. I tried it - and did not believe it myself: all the moles from our sites disappeared!
it has been said many times that in order to scare away moles, sticks with empty cans on them must be stuck into the ground. And I quite by accident found an easier way.
There is no need to build any "strumming" - it is enough to dig in one and a half liter plastic bottles around the perimeter of the whole garden at a distance of 10 m from each other by 1/3 of their length. But most importantly, they should stand with their necks up and without lids. What's the secret? And the fact is that even a light breeze blows into the bottles, thereby causing them to vibrate, which is transmitted to the ground. Even if she is very weak, this is quite enough to scare off moles. I don't even put these bottles away for the winter, and only in the spring I correct them so that they stand upright. So they stick around my garden all year round. And the moles stopped spoiling my plantings, otherwise even before they stopped planting winter garlic because of them, because they ate it almost cleaned it up. I'm not talking about the bulbous flowers.
I fought with moles in a variety of ways, but I helped, oddly enough,
ordinary castor oil, I like its smell.
You need to mix a glass of castor oil and 3 tbsp. l. liquid soap. This concentrate can be stored for several years. To expel moles, 40 ml of the mixture is diluted in 5 liters of water. Mole hollows should be poured from the watering can
Apparently, the animals are not
miki and the ground around them within a radius of 1 m. If it rains, the treatment must be repeated.
I am for the new season - they make plans, collect useful information, but there is never a lot of it. What should be considered when working with seedlings?
I sow seeds in long boxes on March 1. I only take the land for them, well, already
that the mole dug in the garden (and I have all the beds there, well fertilized and filled). !
After 10 days, shoots appear, and then I add a little humus. I water it sparingly, since the plants are still very weak, but after a month I dive two pieces into "half-way" milk cartons, where they live for another month.
In late April - early May (depending on the weather) I prepare a garden bed in a greenhouse. In its place, I first dig a shallow trench, put clay on the bottom in a layer 8-10 cm thick, then pour fertile soil mixed with chicken droppings or horse manure, sprinkle it with ash, and then put a layer (8-10 cm) of fertile soil on top.
I water the garden with a solution of potassium permanganate and plant part of the seedlings.
In sunny weather, I open the film to ventilate the plants. As they grow, I add fertile soil, which helps the branching of the root system.
And the other part of the seedlings after spring frosts (somewhere around May 10-20) I plant in open ground in a checkerboard pattern, with a row spacing of 70 cm, I leave 40 cm between the plants in a row.I add half a bucket of humus to the holes and 1 st ... l. superphosphate. I drive in stakes about 2 m high near the plants and pull the twine between them - I get a trellis for tying bushes.
I feed the plantings with a diluted mullein (1 liter of infusion per bucket of water). I do this in the morning (so the fertilizer sooner reaches the roots) and immediately mulch the garden with earth. Thanks to this technique, I achieve at the same time loosening the soil and hilling the bushes. The harvest is enough for two families.
In the fall, familiar flower growers collect soil from mole-beds for planting plants, preparing substrates for sowing flower seeds. What is the value of such soil?
- "Mole" land has been recommended for use since time immemorial, but so far no one has bothered to conduct a study of its composition. Plants and seedlings are healthy, do not get sick - well, use them to your health!
Probably, most gardeners had to experience pain when they noticed withered plants on the tops of mole "waste heaps".
At such moments, you forget about the useful qualities of the animal and only think about how to drive this pest out of the garden.
We fought with moles using all known methods: we used various rattles, rotten fish, carbide, traps, electric scarers, and poisons. And a mole, like Vaska, who listens and eats, digs and digs everything.
One method still seemed to me the most effective. I cut the bicycle camera into tubes 25-30 cm long. I insert them deeper into the wormholes. I put a piece of hot pepper into the tube (you can also use ground pepper) and set it on fire. In this place, the mole no longer appears.
If you could see what kind of blueberry I had, the whole village would come to me for the harvest. I have been engaged in this culture for 25 years, I started when no one really knew anything about it. How I looked after and took care of the plants, and then they suddenly began to wither. And watered, and fed, and changed the land - brought sour peat from the swamp, mixed with butcher. Nothing helped ... It turned out that the moles had dug up the whole earth, damaged the roots. They say moles will not live where beans grow. Do not believe it! This year I planted beans around a blueberry bush. So the pests, along with blueberries, undermined the beans. Oh, and I got angry! And one idea came to mind: I stirred 1-2 liters of the contents of the toilet in a bucket of water.
I chose a hole on the site, dug it out, poured an unpleasant mixture inside and covered the entrance with earth. A couple of minutes later, a mole jumped out from another exit to the surface, and another one from the second hole. They turned out to be very clean.
I don’t know if my blueberries will go away - time will tell ...
The mole looks cute only in cartoons, but for a summer cottage it is a real disaster.
The total length of all passages of one mole family can reach several hundred meters. Moles spoil the appearance of the site, but most importantly, they undermine the roots of plants, and as a result, the latter die. What methods of dealing with these animals did I use?
Cat. I brought my Purr, showed the move and hoped that my cat would immediately pull out this underground pest. But alas - my cat did not express a desire to climb somewhere, he found a more comfortable place and went to bed. But the stray puppy (I feed them on occasion) pricked up his ears and crawled into this hole, dug for a long time, but to no avail.
Reed. My dacha is located by the pond, so there were no problems with the material. I broke a reed more than 1 m in height and inserted a stem into each hole so that half of it remained on the surface. In windy weather, the reeds begin to “howl”, which should have a negative effect on the moles. They were supposed to disappear in a week. And again - alas.
Turntables and ratchets. I used multi-colored spirals and bottles dug into the ground at an angle.She hung an empty can on a thin stick, deepening it 20 centimeters into the ground. The result is the same.
Fragrant gifts. The mole calmly buried kerosene, herring, garlic, pepper and so on and went into another course. Sly! I even started to respect him.
"Smoke bombs". This method turned out to be the only one that helped, at least temporarily. I dug up the passage, dipped the newspaper in engine oil (waste) and set it on fire so that the smoke would flow. For a while, I managed to smoke out a stubborn pest in this way.
Before the end of the season, she buried rags soaked in gasoline in holes and destroyed all the discovered moves of this prankster. I do not know if I will meet a mole in the spring, but I really would not want to. Now there is only one untested remedy left against him - an ultrasonic repeller.
I also want to give my advice-recommendation to other summer residents on the fight against moles.
I didn’t use what measures to combat the raids of moles. I tried to set traps and wind turbines, then I tried to bury champagne bottles, but all this did not give a good result. But I discovered an effective way of fighting purely by accident, when I began to sort out my home first aid kit. I came across a bottle of eucalyptus essential oil. It was a pity to throw it out, and I decided to conduct an ex-
periment. I took a couple of cotton pads and smeared them with this very oil. I made holes in the molehills with a pin to the very bottom, dipped a cotton pad greased with eucalyptus essential oil there and filled the hole.
My experiment was not in vain: I noticed that the next day the moles fled from this place. When the oil ran out, I decided to lubricate the cotton pads with gasoline. The petrol worked just fine too.
So I managed to get rid of annoying diggers on a plot of 14 acres. The costs are low and the result is excellent - I recommend!
I've been doing dacha since 1965
The first site was in Irkutsk. They planted bushes, worked out the land, fertilized well: a manure machine, a humus machine - and so every year.
The land was fertile, whatever seed fell, everything grew. It was easier with organics then. Currant bushes grew, began to bear fruit, but somehow in the spring we noticed that they began to wither. Lo and behold, under them there are wormholes. Found holes. With one
Raspberries from the bug were poured with turpentine from a watering can. Having laid it down for the winter, watered in the fall, adding 1/3 of a half-liter bottle to the watering can. Maybe it will help from the bear?
Anshe's neighbor's plot often suffered disasters from moles: it was not possible to expel these pests in any way. And when the owner built windmills to scare away, the animals disappeared.
At the site, the master put a tripod 4 m high from a metal corner, deepening it into the ground by 0.5 m. He tied the tripod stands together at the top, bottom and in the middle with thinner corners.
I cut 4 small blades from sheet metal, in the center of which I welded a bearing. He screwed the propeller into the end of a meter square iron bar with a bolt. At the other end he attached a tail made of tin.
At the top of the tripod I built a hexagonal turret with a bearing on the roof. Having found the balance point in the weather vane, he fixed it on the tower, which he painted with paints for outdoor use.
Also, on the sides of the pyramid, I sent metal rods into the ground from the top of the turret.
When the wind blows, the propeller spins, creating vibration, which is transmitted through the metal to the ground. Moles are afraid of noise, so now they bypass the Pavel's site by the tenth road.
By the way, the master pulls the wire on the tripod, along which the beans are twisted.
Old slate and linoleum were dug in from moles around the entire perimeter of the garden along the fence to a depth of 50 cm and at a level of 20 cm above the ground. Greenhouses were also made with a "border". And my husband also made tin "helicopters" on long sticks - they create noise in the wind and also scare away moles.
The best salvation from a bear is a deep digging in the fall: its nests are destroyed, and in winter the pests freeze out.
From the birds they hung old discs on bushes and trees, which shine well in the sun and drive away birds.
Along with the treatment with chemical preparations, we also use helper plants. For example, marigolds, calendula, nasturtium are good at repelling pests with their smell. We sowed these flowers at the entrance to the greenhouse, next to potatoes, cabbage. And in the fall, we grind their stems and embed them in the beds.
Tatiana DEYKALO, Grodno
Fish against moles
We have moles on the site. Then in the fall I decided to try this method: I poured granulated mineral fertilizers (ammophoska, nitrophoska) into the holes-passages, 1-2 cans in each hole. The moles are gone for a while. Then, as soon as new passages appeared, I immediately poured fertilizers there, and the moles disappeared again.
Recently, a neighbor shared another way: she drives the moles from the site by laying rotten fish in the passages. For 2-3 months they leave. I think I will also try this method.
Thanks for the useful information. I read the comments. I found a lot of tips. We will try to fight the mole.
Personally, I'm just tired of saving greenhouse cucumbers from an underground inhabitant. As a result, I came up with this. On the market I saw empty plastic boxes from milk bags. I asked the saleswoman, and she gave them to me at 10 rubles apiece. I scored as much of this yry as I could carry. And the next year, in the greenhouse, she buried the boxes to the very edges and planted her long-suffering cucumbers in them. And the mole did not bother them anymore. But he moved to the garden and began to misbehave there. What to do? You cannot transplant all the plants into boxes. But I noticed that new mole passages appear either in the afternoon or early in the morning.
VI then I found two metal alarm clocks at home, one started at 12 o'clock, the other at 6, put them in iron pots with lids and dug them in different ends of the garden.
The ringing over the beds, of course, was cheerful. But laughter laughed, and the mole was gone (though I entered the alarm clocks during the week). But I don’t know, what if he comes back next year?
Moles are very unwanted guests in the garden and vegetable garden. Although they eat slugs, wireworms, and pest larvae, they have a bad effect on earthworms, and mole passages can greatly spoil the beds and harm trees.
But when it is necessary to prepare land for planting seedlings, moles become my indispensable helpers. The soil from their passages is an ideal base for seedlings. It is loose, free from roots and pests. The land from meadows is especially good: fertile, not depleted by intensive farming, not infected with specific diseases of garden crops. Just try to get the soil of the upper meadow layer from dense turf - you will be tortured to separate the roots! And the mole has already done this work for me and brought the soft, as if sifted, earth to the surface. 4-5 mole piles are enough to collect a bucket of excellent soil. Since autumn, I collect 3-4 buckets, and this is quite enough for spring planting needs. In the spring, it is enough to add half the volume of loose humus to it, a little peat or sand - and the soil for crops and seedlings is ready!
Natalia FEDORCHUK, Pskov
Many people complain about moles. It's just a disaster, they eat everything up. Tunnels form in the garden - you go and fall through. Every year I caught 8-9 of them. And this year they bypassed me, although the neighbors had a lot of them. I think the whole point is that in the spring I planted beans and chickpeas on both sides of the garden. Apparently, the smell of these plants scared them away. I plant corn along the entire perimeter of the garden - this is both a natural fence and food for birds. After harvesting the cobs, I pull out the stalks and chop them into small pieces with an ax. Then I scatter it around the garden and plow it with a tractor.
Tar against moles and mice
Moles and mice deliver a lot of trouble in dachas and garden plots, sometimes you won't find a council for them.
Birch tar is effective against moles.To do this, mix it with vegetable oil in a 1: 3 ratio and dip wood chips into this mixture. Then spread them around the garden in places where moles live. They cannot stand the smell of tar and will soon disappear. And if mice are annoyed by gnawing tree trunks (young thin seedlings are especially affected), then in autumn treat the lower part of the trunk with the same mixture.
How I got rid of moles
If from ancient times you have had some celluloid products (combs, rulers, etc.) lying around, remember one of the best school disgraces that you (or your classmates) probably arranged during a break in the toilet - a smoke!
Only now, with great efficiency, scare it not the teacher, but the mole! It works perfectly, it is possible to get rid of moles for a long time. And as soon as they appear again - again a gas attack on all holes at the same time, and again months of calm!
He fought with moles for a long time. Because of them, flowers die, carrots, beets, radishes and other crops deteriorate. But I have found ways to resist small pests.
Moles are very sensitive to strong odors. When I notice fresh holes, I put rags dipped in kerosene or gasoline there. I update in a couple of days. Sometimes I bury a chicken egg to a depth of 30-40 cm. When it starts to rot, the pest will not even come close to this place. I stick reed stalks into the ground. They sway in the wind and create noise and vibration that moles are very afraid of.
But the most effective is to set traps under the wormholes. I find them with a shovel and dig in liter cans under them. To cover the pit. I put a plate on top. I bury all this with earth (Fig. 1). The mole reacts very quickly that his corridors are out of order and goes to "check the situation." When the animal gets caught (and this happens in about an hour), I take it away from the summer cottage or release it in the forest.
you need to fill in their moves and observe, you won't have to wait long: the mole will crawl out on its own, and then decide for yourself what to do with it
does not climb out, I'm drowning ... maybe drowning?
Terrible carbide smell
I want to tell you how I got rid of moles in the garden. The method is not entirely humane, but what to do? About two years ago, October turned out to be warm and dry, without rain. I decided to dig up the sow thistle where I grew up (its neighbors have a sea). I went around the garden and failed, I didn't even understand what had happened right away. And when I looked closely ... a quarter of the garden was plowed up like a maze.
I was not at a loss. I had carbide. I heard that he is good at helping with moles.
She raked up the mounds, threw a piece of carbide in both directions and filled it with water. The passage was clogged with earth. How much carbide was, I used everything.
He smells like that - it's just awful, she didn't allow her grandchildren to run. So everything remained until spring. From now on, the garden is clean. I read a lot about all sorts of ways, but I did not find anything about this one.
The best ways to deal with moles
In the corners of the garden, in sections of 8-10 pieces, I buried champagne bottles: to the full depth with the neck down. When a mole tries to enter the site, it is frightened by the amplified sounds of its own scratching. He starts looking for an entrance nearby, but even then he runs into an obstacle from bottles. As a result, it leaves.
I cut off the neck of a 2-liter plastic bottle - it turns out to be a large glass. I bury it near the burrow so that the edges are at the level of the soil, and pour water to a height of 4-5 cm. If, after a heavy rain, the glass is full, I scoop up the excess water. At first I set such traps to catch the bear, and then I saw that there were no less moles and mice in them.
When I come to the dacha, the first thing I do is go around the garden. If I see swollen earth on the garden bed (the move of a mole), I make a hole with a stick and throw a few pieces of beans. The result is not long in coming - the mole leaves. On the plots where potatoes and cabbage grew, after I treated their plantings with Inta-Vir solution, I no longer saw traces of the pest.And last year I sowed beans around the perimeter of the garden - and the harvest of beans was good, and there were no problems with moles in the summer!
I harvest 20-25 sticks from hazel (they are enough for 5-6 acres) about 1 m long with a diameter of 2-3 cm. I put them in a bucket, fill them with birch tar and leave them for an hour. Then I hammer the sticks along the site in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 5 m with the impregnated end down to a depth of 30-40 cm. And for greater effect, I attach metal cans to the upper protruding ends of the sticks with fishing line. At the slightest wind, they hit the sticks and create noise, which is transmitted to the depth and frightens the moles. I treat the sticks with fresh tar every season.
He vertically dug into the ground old water pipes (6 pieces for 5 acres) and strung "beads" of metal lids and small nails on each one. As the wind blows, they make noise, and when it is quiet, they rustle, scaring away moles.
moles destroy the harvest, garlic, onions, carrots and potatoes, if he settled on your site, then you cannot see the harvest from me for several years now, it’s useless to fight with him; touched
Fighting moles for a gardener is still an open question. An average volume can be devoted to a review of the currently existing melee and melee remedies. We did not notice any fundamental discoveries in this field, but news appears relatively regularly. There is more and more evidence that moles have a very negative attitude to gasoline exhaust. The hose from the exhaust pipe of an idling gasoline engine, submerged in a hole, allows moles to be expelled from the polluted underground galleries for a long time, and sometimes even forever. An hour in the morning and an hour in the evening. A couple of days. And almost every gardener has some kind of "benzyuk" - a trimmer or a chainsaw. It is unlikely that after such a surprise, the mole will want to stay here for a long time ...
Moles will not pass
Many summer residents do not know how to cope with moles. And the hazel grouse helped me get rid of them.
In my garden I "poked" them on all the flower beds and even on the lawn. Since then, I do not suffer from moles.
In addition, hazel grouses are very simple to care for and bloom every year. And they do not interfere on the lawn.
Just do not plant the imperial one, he is very capricious in his care, it is better - small species such as chess or Mikhailovsky.
An effective method of dealing with moles
Many gardeners and gardeners are well aware of this problem: on the lawn, and just in the garden or in the garden, mounds of earth suddenly appear. These are traces of the work of uninvited excavators - moles. And it is not so easy to expel the animals from the site. I myself didn’t take any measures to combat the raids of the moles: I used both traps and wind turbines, not to mention special grains with poison and various clever light-emitters. But if something helped, then not for long.
I noticed once that the animals are afraid of shaking the soil. For example, while laying sidewalk tiles on the garden paths and tapping lightly on them with a hammer, these night robbers disappeared somewhere for a couple of weeks. But here, behind the fence, the neighbors started a construction project, and the moles immediately crossed the border of our plots - they returned to me.
An effective way of dealing with moles, moreover, quite simple, was recently discovered and perfected.
but by accident. While sorting through my home medicine cabinet, I came across a tiny bottle of eucalyptus essential oil. When he uncorked the bottle, the smell instantly spread throughout the kitchen. And I decided to conduct an experiment. In the evening, he took a couple of round cosmetic cotton pads, smeared them with this oil and carried them to the mounds of earth that the moles left behind. With a special garden pin for removing weeds, I made holes in one of the mounds to the very bottom of the wormhole, lowered a piece of cotton wool there and filled the hole. The result was not long in coming: the moles fled from this place.
Then I ran out of eucalyptus oil, and there was simply no time to go to look for it specifically in pharmacies. It is for this reason that I smeared cotton swabs this time with just a few drops of gasoline. And it worked again! So, uninvited diggers gradually managed to survive from a fairly solid territory of 30 acres.
I have not yet met such Tsachniks who would feel sorry for moles. Some offer barbaric ways to get rid of them (like hooks dug into burrows), others - humane (all sorts of turntables from plastic bottles), but all agree on one thing: from these animals there is only one harm. But I think this is a moot point.
Digging passages, the mole undermines the plants encountered on its way, but he does this unconsciously, they just interfere with him. I will not argue - it's a pity for the vegetables that have dried up because of this. And mole "waste heaps" - soil emissions against the background of well-groomed beds and garden plantings - look disgusting. Moreover, it eats worms so useful in our business. On the other hand, it also devours caterpillars of moths, wireworms and May beetle larvae. And these pests do much more harm than moles. So guess now what to do.
In my opinion, here it is necessary to look for a golden mean. Without moles - not yet
it is known whether the site will be better. With them - you must count the losses. In short, the mole does not need to be given free rein, but there is no need to open a merciless hunt for it. Therefore, I turn to the story of how I tried some ways to deal with it.
D Many summer residents recommend digging in any relatively deep container (bucket or old bucket) in the direction of the mole's movement so that its edge is at the level of the burrow floor. It turns out a kind of wolf pit. And so he did. My nephew helped me. We took a 40-liter saucepan and dug it in. They covered the top with a piece of slate and sprinkled it with earth. In the morning, as soon as we woke up, we immediately went to the trap and opened it. The pan was almost filled to the top with earth. The assumption was this: a mole in trouble called his fellows to help, and they rescued him. What other considerations might there be? We tried again for the purity of the experiment -
the same result. Maybe it's just our moles so friendly? Mafia, in a word.
There was a note that moles can be scared away by pouring water into their passages. Yeah, I think I have running water, the pressure is good, I must try. In general, he pecked. Plugging the hose into the hole, I opened the tap, and I sit and wait. The water leaves without stagnation. Okay. He smoked a cigarette, time goes on, murmurs in the hose. Then a neighbor comes in and asks: "Vladimirich, why is it running from under the door of the street toilet?" I jumped up. I ran to look. It turns out that these tricksters have everything provided: from the main passages, they brought the diversion into the cesspool. Here we were with a neighbor laughing. Moles led me around my finger.
Many write about this method: dig in or hammer in metal pins, tie metal cans to them, which, rotating from the wind, transmit vibration to the ground and scare away moles. I tried it. Perhaps this helps in isolated areas. But where are the moles to go, where gardening stretches for many kilometers (and everywhere such pins stick out)? That is why I was not at all surprised when I saw in my garden a stick with a jar dug by a mole.
I will add that on my site of 6 acres, I do not conduct a systematic struggle with these animals. I get to work when they get it. And I use the following two methods.
Considering that the mole is notable for its economy, I, having found traces of its activity in the morning, carefully trample everything with my feet. And then I go about my business on the site, periodically glancing at the defeat I have inflicted.
Kpom will definitely rebuild its farm by raising the ground.
This is where I throw it out with a shovel. But there is one nuance: you need to correctly determine the direction of its movement. If you stick a shovel towards him, he will wash off along the already repaired tunnel.The shovel should be stuck behind the mole and sharply thrown up from the ground. Then it remains to catch him with his hands and take him somewhere to the neighboring forest.
In About this method was printed in one of the issues of "Dacha" (alas, I do not remember which one). There was a diagram of the trap. But - one-sided action, and it is not known from which side the mole is. So, you need to put two. I made a two-sided trap (see fig.). In the cylindrical part of the plastic bottle (part 1), from both sides, I insert the necks from the same bottles (part 2). From the side of the narrow part, I cut the neck into 8-16 petals, depending on the thickness of its walls. For the reliability of the connection, I sometimes wrap this place with tape.
The principle of operation is as follows. A mole, walking on its own course from either side, spreads the petals and falls into a trap with a bait. He can no longer go back, since the petals are tightly closed. Everything, the client, as they say, is ready. It remains only to get it. And setting such a trap is generally a couple of trifles: you just need to dig out a section of the mole's "road" and lay the structure with the bait.
It is advisable to catch with such a trap in the spring, before planting, or in the fall, after harvesting, so as not to harm the plantings.
Excellent review about the protection of moles. A sober view of reality.
We have been engaged in land works for over 7 years. Since we do not have very valuable landings, we began to observe the moles, rather the burrows. So our observations led to the fact that not a single plant, starting from the seedlings of trees, roses, flowers, vegetables, died. In some cases it even got better. We fix the hills elementary - we put the hose on the hill, then we tamped the hole and all the issues were resolved. So that the plants were dug up, suffered - were not noticed. it is much worse when the moles do not come and the larvae of the May beetle destroy the entire planting of the mouse, gnaw out the roots, the bear fruit “mows down” everything - this is the problem. And the MOLE helps with these problems, which has nothing to do with plant foods. We have a mole every 3-4 years. Basically, a year after the summer of the May beetle.
I fight the mole like a gentleman
I have to fight with moles, as they, making passages in the dug up ground, spoil the roots of plants in the garden and turn everything in the flower bed. But I do not want to poison the animals - I treat them like a gentleman.
When fresh molehills appear, mentally draw lines between them. Most likely, mole passages run along these lines. I find them and bury liter cans with their necks up in several places under them. I bring tunnels made of pieces of cardboard or tin up to them from above, cover the outer hole with the same cardboard and sprinkle it with earth.
Once or twice a day I open tunnels and check banks. When a mole falls into one of them, I take it right in the bank to a nearby grove - to some ravine or pit. There he will be able to dig holes without any damage to my site.
I have improved the now well-known noise-maker for moles, now known to everyone, made of empty containers put on pegs stuck in the ground. If I take beer cans for this purpose, then with the key for opening canned food I remove the top from them, and the bottom with the help of a shovel handle I make from a concave convex one (Fig. 1). The jars now react even to the weakest breeze, ring like bells, and scare away all moles in the vicinity with noise and vibration.
But even better effect is given by "modernized" plastic bottles. I'm from-
changed the number of wings, their shape and location (Fig. 2). Due to improved aerodynamics, such a turntable turns even when others are standing in anticipation of the wind. In addition, the new shape of the wings allows the use of any bottle shape.
To mark them up, I use a miracle template (Fig. 3). This is a bottle of the same shape with a longitudinal cut, from which the neck and bottom have been removed (photo 1).
The template, put on the bottle, fits snugly to it, and along its edge, like a ruler, I draw cut lines.I also use a universal marker - a ring cut out of a rubber glove with marks drawn on it. I pull it over a bottle of any diameter, mark the beginning and end of the cut lines with holes (pierce with an awl). I squeeze holes in the caps to center the wire axis. If the lid is plastic, I soften it in boiling water and press it with a rounded stick - when it cools, a depression remains (see Fig. 4).
If you pinch a shiny candy wrapper with a lid, then the spinner will scare off not only moles, but also birds (with its glare).
If two wings, oppositely located, are cut in half and one part is bent down, making legs, and the other up, like hands, then we will see a dancing doll - it is not a hindrance to business, but fun for children (photo 2).
If the moles do not understand what they want from them, then in places of strong wind (drafts along the wall) I use "heavy artillery" - I string two bottles on the axle in a mirror image. They rotate in different directions, the upper one bounces on the lower one and makes a much more convincing noise (Fig. 6).
All my life I have been engaged in the land, I was born in Karelia, where I had big harvests: my sister Liza, who helped me, counted 32 potatoes from one bush. Fertilized with horse manure and ash.
I also want to offer my own way of dealing with moles. In 1988 we received a plot in the Vsevolozhsk district of the Leningrad region. In the first year, moles were found. Then I brought bottles of champagne from the city, and my wife and I, where we will see a mink-tubercle - into it and insert the bottle with the neck down. The main part of the bottle remains above the tubercle. When moles “argue” underground - they divide corners, a strange, unpleasant sound is heard in the bottle, and they are removed from the site.
I always have a large supply of these bottles in case the moles come back to us again.
The moles and mole rats who occupied the site simply tortured us. Help came by accident.
We planted corn and so that the jackdaws would not pull the young shoots, we stuck branches 1.5 m high along the perimeter and in the middle of the plantings, stretched an audio tape from old tape reels between them (tape from video cassettes and foil tapes are also suitable). When the wind stirred the film, it made a hum, and jackdaws stayed away from the corn. But the most interesting thing is that due to the vibration of the branches, the moles also left the site. We solved two problems in one fell swoop! Now all neighbors put such "scarers".
Moles have dug up all our beds and flower beds. The harvest is almost ruined. My wife entrusted a liberation mission from insidious pests to me. And here's what I came up with.
Stocked up with thick durable sheet metal, steel wire, scraps of plastic pipe with a diameter of 5 cm and a length of 18-20 cm.
By the size of the pipe circumference, I cut out oblong-shaped plug-valves from the tin and attached them at both ends with the help of a wire (it goes through the pipe walls along a chord). I installed the plugs in such a way that they easily open inward, but remain locked for going out.
The traps worked properly until it rained - the moles simply stuffed the pipes with wet earth and freely "roamed" along them. I had to redo the structure.
He took off the useless plugs and installed 4 metal hooks curved in the shape of the letter G at the ends of the tubes with a point inward.
My calculation was that the mole would easily crawl into the tube, but would no longer be able to get out - it would be frightened by the sharp hooks aimed at it from the other side. And there is no way back to him either - the same ominous hooks.
Now about the installation of mole traps. Taking into account the fact that the diggers make their moves at a depth of 15-25 cm, the trap pipes were installed exactly at this level. In total, I placed five pieces in different places on the site - where I found heaps of earth thrown out by moles.
and to a neighbor in a summer cottage
Well, you scared off the mole for 2-3 days from your site to the neighbor (and the neighbor will thank you or will he send his moles to visit you?), But he will return again, because.he is tied to his territory, and the neighboring mole does not want to share worms from his plantation, otherwise moles would live like ants, all in the same garden. The most effective means is to destroy them, because moles do not believe in humanism, but eat They always want to. And when your work (growing flowers, lawns, etc., in which you have invested certain funds) is destroyed or spoiled by some kind of animal, you do not feel much delight. and there is a desire to destroy the enemy. you do not feel a sense of humanism for mice, a bear, they also shovel the earth, the Colorado beetle, he pollinates plants, etc., so why would humanism to a certain individual, or he is your chosen one, I love this, but this is not.
When we got a distant vegetable garden, moles tortured us. True, they did not go for potatoes, but they dug up the beds with strawberries. I began to plant legumes and imperial hazel grouse along the edges of the garden - the moles are gone.
Although moles harm the garden, I still don’t want to set traps on them, for some reason I’m sorry to kill these animals. Is it possible to get rid of them in some peaceful way, to make sure that they themselves get out of the area to pick up and greet you?
I plant ordinary black beans throughout the entire plot, and I always have all the root vegetables whole. Moles, for example, cannot stand the smell of legumes and leave on their own.
My husband and I also recently faced such a problem - we bought a summer cottage, the previous owners did not say a word about the unpleasant "neighborhood" - but at the first opportunity the moles made themselves felt ... It is difficult to call us professionals of gardening, therefore, armed with knowledge, obtained from the informative articles of the Internet, went to the fight against pests ... It turned out to survive "neighbors" is not so easy, which just did not try! The most effective (and humane.) Method of pest control turned out to be a sound repeller. It produces a low frequency sound that scares moles. We compared the prices for such scarers from different manufacturers - they differ greatly. Unwanted "neighbors" have left us, we hope forever!
How we fight moles on the site
First, we plant beans in our vegetable garden - wherever it does not interfere with cultivated plants. And where beans cannot be planted, we put turntables. This is the second thing. How do we make them? We stick a metal rod about 2 m long into the ground.If there is no such rod, use an even stick, into the upper part of which we drive a knitting needle. Then we take a plastic beer bottle with a capacity of 2 liters with a wide middle part. In the bottom of the bottle, exactly in the middle with a red-hot tool, we make a hole, the diameter of which should be such that the bottle rotates freely around our metal rod.
Then we measure the circumference of the middle part of the bottle with a centimeter and divide the number by 3. We make three vertical cuts, stepping back from the "shoulders" and the bottom of the bottle by 3-5 cm, ie. cut the part where the label is usually glued. From the ends of the cuts we make horizontal cuts up and down in one direction, not reaching the next vertical cut of 2 cm. We bend the resulting "blades" perpendicular to the bottle. We put the bottle on the rod - its end rests against the cap. Done. Now, from the slightest breath of wind, the bottle begins to rotate, and the rod vibrates and transfers vibration to the ground. The mole doesn't like it.
We do not seem to have moles, but in our area the hamster is very annoying to vegetable gardens and everything is to his taste. I tried different poisoned baits, tried to sow more so that the rodent ate and left, but nothing could stop him: where the animal was eating, there was nothing to collect - empty rows.
And then they gave me this advice: prepare holes for cucumbers and dig in 1.5-liter plastic bottles for drinks at a slight slope next to each one, so that they protrude slightly above the ground. Pre-cut the neck with the stopper.Put a treat for the pest inside the bottles: fry flour and semolina in a greased frying pan, mix the cooled "snack" with asbestos in equal parts.
I did so. A week later, there was no trace of the hamsters on the site. And I finally harvested a decent harvest of cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons.
This "digger" remains invisible all the time. But the results of his activities are very noticeable. And let's try to drive away the mole and get a raise to the table.
My husband and I used to live and work in Vorkuta. In 1980 they retired. We were so tired of the cold that we decided to move to Ukraine. There was no big money. In a village in the Cherkasy region, they bought a hut where no one had lived for five years. We did not use a 10 acres vegetable garden. Here, the moles have plenty of space - whatever we plant, they will plow everything up. The whole garden was in mole hills.
As soon as we tried to lime them: we put rags moistened with kerosene, naphthalene in the holes, put twigs - everything was useless. You can't put a rag in each hole, 10 acres! But one day I heard that the best remedy for moles is black beans. I bought a little - I could hardly find it. She began to plant them first in the garden, then, when she planted a lot of beans, the garden was divided into squares and beans were planted around the edges. At first, the moles stopped touching the garden, and then they disappeared from the garden altogether. Gone completely. I don’t know why, but moles clearly don’t like beans.
Natalia Smorchkova, Moscow. Author of articles on the site Vogorode.pro
The task was to grow as many environmentally friendly potatoes as possible, in a small area. I tried to grow potatoes for the second year. And, also on condition: without digging the land, without applying manure and mineral fertilizers, under mulch. It turned out 90 kg. from 5 sq. m. And this is not the limit. To be continued….
There is nothing difficult in growing eggplants in a greenhouse near Moscow! Growing eggplants is even easier than tomatoes, less maintenance. It is easy to fight the dropping of flowers if you know which leaves to cut off from eggplants, and most importantly - why?
We continue experiments on growing potatoes in the country, on a small area, without digging the land, environmentally friendly, without the introduction of manure and mineral fertilizers, under mulch. In p As a result, we get a potato crop - 100 kg from 5 sq. m.
Bronzovka beetle larvae and May beetle larvae, what is the difference? I did not know. I think that many do not know, but the larva of the May beetle is the enemy, and the larva of the bronze beetle is a friend. After all, the larva of the bronzovka helps us to increase the fertility of the soil!
Compost in boxes. For early, spring plantings, we prepare compost in autumn - we save time and effort. After all, in the spring there are a lot of other concerns! No need to chop the compost with a crowbar, we take it out and use it right away.
I wanted to grow a lot of potatoes in a small area. At the same time, get an answer to the question of whether the etiolated, white stalk of potatoes affects the crop. What happens if you use the Czech method? Will the harvest be increased? This experiment was carried out in 2011.
I probably would never have learned what vermicompost is, Vermicofe, if not for a freebie! In 2012 year I got 50 liters of vermicompost and 2 liters of Vermicofe, on condition of the experiment! My review is excellent, I recommend it to everyone, and not only for plants in the garden, but also for indoor plants.
We grow potatoes in a high bed, or in a bed-box, under mulch, without the introduction of mineral fertilizers, without manure. No shovel, weeding and hilling. Potato harvest - from 3 sq.m. we get 58 kg., and this is not the limit.
Many have tried to grow watermelons in the suburbs in the open field. So what? A small watermelon grows (it happens that there are two) and even then it does not always have time to ripen. I made the following conclusion: so if you plant watermelons in the Moscow region in the open field, then only grafted ones.
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, determinate varieties, indeterminate varieties. Tomato care.
Tomatoes, I grow in two trunks, in addition, I plant them in two - 20 holes, but 40 roots. A decent harvest.
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, planting tomato seedlings, by the time of moving to the dacha, tomatoes have a strong healthy look, a thick trunk, 7-9 true leaves.
Early tomato harvest, early tomatoes, tomato seedlings. An early harvest of tomatoes is not only delicious fruits from your garden in mid-June, but also avoiding phytophthora. How to get an early harvest of tomatoes in a greenhouse near Moscow?
There is nothing difficult in growing tomato seedlings. First you need to know when you want to plant tomatoes in the ground. It is better to plant at the age of 45-50 days, because overgrown tomatoes in a small pot volume will not please you with an early harvest.
Through chance, I learned how to increase the yield of late cabbage by about 25% without any extra effort. From a small garden bed 3kv. m. I harvest 90 kg of cabbage. This harvest is enough for food, and ferment cabbage for the winter.
The effectiveness of the fight against moles, methods of fighting moles. Description of our persistent, long-term struggle with moles in various ways. Each method of struggle gave some result, most often the result was unexpected.
After many years of war with moles on the site, it became clear that it was impossible to get rid of them. Moles won this war. We moved on to effective protection.
Do-it-yourself high beds or box beds, beds made of flat slate and boards. In order for the boards not to rot and serve as long as possible, the main rule is to isolate them from contact with the ground. The materials that we tried to use to make tall beds.
We can enhance the processes occurring at the border of mulch and soil, creating better conditions for their flow, increasing the growth of soil fertility and yield, from year to year.
I have long wanted to collect seeds from the F1 hybrid and see what grows. It is clear that tomatoes will grow, not cucumbers, but what will the yield be? Will the new generation F2 be much different from its F1 parents? It was curious. They will take their place, what if there are no tomatoes or there will be few?
Time to plant onions in spring. Compacted onion planting, onion mulching with sawdust, onion care. Cleaning and drying of onions. Onion storage. From a garden area of 5 sq.m. we get 34 kg. Luke.
This planting method can be used when a potato variety needs to be propagated quickly and seed is scarce. What you need to know about sprouting potatoes.
Growing grafted watermelons. Grass mulching. Fruit rationing. More tops of a watermelon means more fruit. When watermelons ripen in the Moscow region.
I would like to share with you my new experience in growing grafted watermelons in the open field of the Moscow region in the summer of 2016.
Growing early potatoes. Sprouting, planting, caring for early potatoes. Video "Growing early potatoes". An early and large harvest of potatoes.
How to grow early radish, lettuce, spinach in an unheated polycarbonate greenhouse in the Moscow region? When and how to sow seeds for an early harvest? Care.
If there is a greenhouse in the garden, you want to use it to the fullest and get a return from early spring to late autumn.
My way of growing lettuce, spinach and radish allows you to get an early harvest, and at the same time it is not at all necessary to live in the country in March, it is enough to come on a weekend.
Growing early cabbage. Growing early cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse. Joint cultivation of early and late cabbage - two crops from one bed.
Usually in the spring, every gardener has all the windowsills, shelves, loggias filled with seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and more! Also - cucumbers, melons, watermelons…. And I also want to grow seedlings of flowers, and early cabbage for the table would also not hurt ...
Growing potatoes in a bucket. Experiment. Growing potatoes in a barrel, in bags, in boxes. Harvest. Growing potatoes on a very small piece of land.
There is a lot of information about growing potatoes in a barrel, in bags, in boxes, in a bucket. The authors say that you can grow a lot of potatoes in this way, the main thing is, when the sprouts appear, fill the potatoes with their heads and more than once. Then, by planting a couple of potatoes in a barrel, we get a whole barrel of potatoes, well, or a whole bag, depending on what we put in. So I decided to leave my review..
Larvae in compost. The difference between the larvae of the bear from the larva of the May beetle and the larvae of the bronze. What do bear larvae look like? Which larvae produce compost?
Many gardeners, shoveling the compost, stumble upon fat, white larvae, and such larvae are also often found under mulch in the beds. People, due to their natural disgust, fear or illiteracy, write off everything on the harmfulness of these larvae, it happens that panic begins, and without understanding they make the most incredible assumptions and often destroy everyone indiscriminately.
Potatoes are degenerating, what to do? How to select potatoes for planting? Sprouting potatoes before planting. A bucket of potatoes from the fifth reproduction bush is a reality!
Each of us has heard that if you plant your seed potatoes every year, then it degenerates. It is recommended to update the planting material, if not every year, then after two to three years.
Lamps for growing seedlings. What phytolamps are better for seedlings? Testing of LED and fluorescent lighting for seedlings. Illumination height for seedlings.
If you decide that you will grow the seedlings yourself, then you cannot do without good lighting. There is no need to buy lamps for illumination of seedlings every year, so it is advisable to buy once, but good lamps. What is the best seedling light? Most accurately, only the seedlings themselves can answer this question!
Are store-bought apples good for you? How are apples processed? How many store apples are stored? Stored for more than a year, and this is of great benefit - for the seller.
This is not an article, but a sketch of what is happening, I do not draw conclusions, I do not give recommendations, everyone will make them for himself, and perhaps these conclusions will be different.
Every avid gardener wants not only to grow a tomato harvest, but also to get this harvest as early as possible.
Until this year, my first red tomatoes ripened on June 14-17, the seedling period was long, and I wasted a lot of time. Today I want to share my new experience with readers and subscribers. How to get a very early crop of tomatoes in the greenhouse and not waste your time.
What to put in the compost heap in the spring? Conditions under which the bronze beetle and its larvae will do all the work of composting themselves, without our participation. Video.
I use compost every year, mainly for growing seedlings. My tomato seedlings grow in five to nine liter bottles, and even peppers and eggplants in three liter pots! So, the purchased vermicompost is not enough.
How to grow an early harvest of tomatoes in the suburbs? Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. Formation of a powerful root system. Heating of the soil with the "Warm bed" cable. Video.
As I said, I did not have a goal to get a tomato harvest in May, my experiment is to blame for everything.
The result of helping seedlings. How to grow a large eggplant crop? Video "Ambulance for seedlings after frost"
The frosty spring of 2017 in the Moscow region strongly affected the seedlings. Unheated greenhouses, in which the seedlings stood, were not saved from frost.
Growing early cabbage under a covering material. When to plant early cabbage for seedlings? Early cabbage in a seedless way. Cabbage care. Video.
When to plant winter garlic? Preparing the garlic bed. Video - Growing large winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall. When to remove the mulch from garlic?
How to cut potato tubers before planting? How long before planting to cut tubers? The secret of planting cut tubers. Big harvest. Video - how to grow potatoes from cut tubers.
What you need to know when buying cauliflower seeds? When to plant cauliflower seedlings? Cabbage care. Growing cauliflower from seed to harvest.
I often hear that growing cauliflower is much more difficult than regular cabbage. This year I have specially grown early and cauliflower together. They grew up close to sowing seeds to harvesting.
At the end of February 2017, I started an experiment: What is the best way to germinate potatoes? Germination in the light and in the dark. At what germination will the yield be greater? The entire experiment was filmed.
Purple potatoes, cultivation, yield, purple potato flavor. Potatoes with purple flesh and purple skin. Growth features. Feedback. Video
Planting potatoes in a box, caring for potatoes. How to defeat late blight of potatoes. Growing potatoes in a box. Harvest - a bucket from a bush. Video. 11.5 kg per potato bush.
I am telling you the old way of how to improve the land on a site that has been neglected for years in order to get an excellent harvest
Did you get a neglected site? The land (soil) on it is "useless" - is everything overgrown with weeds and weeds, nettles and grass with human height? What to do, how to ennoble, how to improve uncultivated land? But I want the land not to stand idle. I would like to have my own vegetable garden and a blooming garden. Eat your own natural vegetables and fruits without chemicals. Yes
Garden-vegetable garden in the swamp. Personal experience.
So, I give the introductory data. A plot of 10 acres, the layout of Belarusian rural designers, rural social housing. The house is built on a swamp. Not just high groundwater, not flooded area. it is the swamp. It has always been here, even carp was caught here. The builders poured a meter of clay, and tadatatam. meter of DOLOMITIC crushed stone. Yeah, in the swamp. For those who do not understand the trick: dolomite dissolves in an acidic environment, swamp waters have an acidic environment. Well, that is, 3 years after settling, we fell by half a meter, after another 3 years by another half a meter. Groundwater came up to 20 centimeters from the existing soil level.
We are ordinary villagers, only my husband works, I am disabled. I can't dig-carry at all. To order soil is not to offer, it costs more than we have income for a year. Because a minimum of 300 tons is required. But we are not lazy. and soobuchalovka works a bit.
For trees, shrubs, a rise of 50 centimeters from the existing level is required. This is if the trees are cherry-plum and apple trees on a dwarf rootstock. The rest does not work. So, we cut off the turf with even plates wherever we find it. on our site it is quite a lot of places. In places where the sod has already been cut off, we sow rhizome weeds from the category of malicious weeds. Next year it will be another layer of turf. What have we got to lose? Anyway, nothing grows here.
We start in spring and finish next spring ..
From cubes of sod, about 20 by 20 cm, we lay out houses for trees, or we immediately build settlements. The width is a meter and a half, the height is 60 centimeters, because it settles, it is long according to needs. We lay it like bricks on a wall, carefully water each sob, for better adhesion. At the bottom of the resulting boxes we pour broken glass, this is protection against moles and rats, brick fight, stones, naturally, and wooden debris such as chains, small branches, bark will not be dolomite. NOT cherry-plum-vine, these will germinate for sure! All together they are 20 centimeters high. Further 10 centimeters of manure, 10 centimeters of hay-straw-dry grass, top up with peat, sand and existing soil. water well, leave for a month. Composting processes are switched on here, the mass is reduced by a third. At this time, we plant shrub trees. Running out of time for boarding? We leave until the next planting pore. You can just add plant waste, more sand with peat, and whatever soil you can find. We get the perfect soil. Good level above groundwater. Moles are not scary.
If you make a large box, 9 by 6 meters, and fill it gradually during the summer, you will get an excellent piece for the garden. This is how we filled a hole 2 meters deep. Now there are 12 bushes of currants, red and black, and a piece for dahlias. We fell asleep for 2 years. You will have to add some more, but since I mulch everything, and with a decent layer of straw, 10 wheelbarrows of peat will be required. not more.
Thus, we poured two pieces of 9 by 4 meters, a piece of 9 by 6, a piece of 1.5 by 8 meters. Now we are making two pieces of 9 by 15 meters.
In addition to glass and ceramics, tins, scrap metal, old leather shoes, and junk made from natural fabrics go to the very bottom.
Synthetic rags and shoes, polyethylene and plastic are strictly prohibited.
Well, yes, not for the lazy. But life sometimes throws up situations from which one must get out by the forces and methods that are available.
And yes, we have a plus, we can carry waste of silo piles from the nearest farms. This is already a semi-finished compost. And rotten straw, which is also great for soil formation.
Site decoration and concrete decorations, part 1
I make and use new original shapes or use old broken pieces of concrete that I can find when the sidewalk or road is broken, for example. I think the shapes made are very attractive additions to patios, aisles, wherever your imagination can place them, and the decoration of the site only benefits from this.
Step 1. First, find parts suitable for use as a concrete decoration
These parts are the neighbour's broken sidewalk. This is just one of the many bases that I use. Other foundations are bricks, rocks, fragments of concrete, tiles, and so on.
Step 2. Come up with a decorative decoration of the site and make volumetric letters (inscriptions) from expanded polystyrene
Here, I cut the letters into a sheet of styrofoam. I try to use a solid sheet of styrofoam. The centers of the letters "o", "p", "v", etc., must be cut out, but preserved, and used in the process of pouring the decoration from concrete into molds.
Step 3. Materials used for making decorative lettering decoration
I use several different cementitious products such as thin cement, ordinary cement, quick setting mortar, concrete set, slurry, with and without dyes, etc. All of these products work well, but some hold the concrete slightly better than others. As in all art, this is a field for experimentation to find what works for you, on your basis, best.
Step 4. Letters gain volume and place
After the letters are "dry", which is the end of the process, the Styrofoam can be removed from the letters and the concrete decorations. I use dental instruments, small screwdrivers, etc., anything you can pry, cut and simply remove the foam from your product.
Step 5. Paint the concrete site décor if you like
The letters can be painted as I did with these patterns. Usually acrylic paint is used and varnished for shine. I usually use 3 or 4 coats, and this is enough to protect the decorative area from water and rain.
Continuation of the article Decorative decoration of the site and concrete decorations follows.
Thanks for the great article on garden decorations made of concrete! My husband and I will definitely do something similar to decorate our site - first of all, signs, as well as different names and gags.
Yes, of course, Larissa! These decorations are very suitable for a large and spacious suburban area. It will be very pleasant to walk in such a humanized world.
Concrete for a summer resident is a handy tool, but we are constantly building. The idea that you can decorate a garden with its help is new to me.
Of course Olga, there is always a place for concrete in the country. So why not use concrete for decoration too.Or have you already made paving slabs out of concrete?
I agree that concrete decorations are the most suitable material for a summer cottage. It has many advantages, but what attracts me specifically is that it is heavy (they will not be stolen) and that such decorations do not need to be removed for the winter - they can stand in the open air.
Here, Alexander, at his summer cottage, is a home-made concrete bench weighing 250 kg. So it’s worth it!
On the eve of the summer cottage season, the search for new decorations for their site by summer residents is also intensified. I think that concrete jewelry is the most suitable material for such crafts.
Can I get more details?
Quite an interesting idea, worth a try!
I must say that concrete decorations, despite the fact that they look hard, are very practical for a summer cottage, garden or vegetable garden. I have a concrete bench made of concrete in the open air at the dacha, and a lamp, and nothing is done with it.
I love all sorts of cool things, especially if they can be done quickly and easily. With the beginning of the summer season, I will try not to forget to repeat the crafts recommended by you.
I support readers who say that concrete decorations are most suitable for a summer cottage - durable and do not require maintenance.
Only metal can be compared with concrete in a summer cottage. But he is attractive to vandals. So the decoration of the site is best done from concrete.
It is permissible to bribe seedlings in the nursery through our online store. The seedling nursery grows annual, biennial and perennial seedlings for you. Grown in caring hands, our plants freely take root in the soils of central Russia. The cultivation and sale of trees and other plants is carried out in containers corresponding to the development of the seedling root. All plants with a closed root system, and probably the roots of our plants, are not damaged or dried out and are ready for planting within only a year. The Internet shop of seedlings "AgroVista" sells nursery products in Moscow and the Moscow region. The store managers are friendly and attentive and are always ready to advise you on planting and caring for the following plants.
Phone +7 (495) 103-48-16 (multichannel)
Address Moscow region, urban district Balashikha, md. Railway, st. Soviet house 78
Quite a kind of decoration for a summer residence. However, concrete is a recognized material for decorating a summer cottage.
A fashionable trend is decorating a dacha with concrete products. Sometimes it is completely bad taste. But thank God, yours looks like something.
Concrete for a summer cottage is an eternal decoration!
Many users wish to select a material based on the density of the material. But experts say that this approach is wrong. This is explained by the fact that the same materials with the same density indices can have different thermal conductivity.
How to get rid of mole rats, moles, shrews and hamsters in the country. The secret is loud and powerful
If at the first visit to the dacha you are struck by minks and earthen mounds, it means that you have fertile land, and uninvited underground guests have come to visit you.
It can be ferrets, and moles, and shrews, and many other underground inhabitants harmful to the summer resident. I prefer to immediately kick them off the site.
To do this, I buy a pack of firecrackers, which are used at the holidays, mostly by boys, to “poke around”. These firecrackers cost a penny, but are sold everywhere.